All of this math is hurting my brain. I haven’t taken a math class in 6 years. Nevertheless, Stephanie Japel insists it must be done if you want to create a fitted knit.
Here are my pattern notes:
Since I did 18 increase rows in the yolk instead of the pattern’s 17 increase rows I ended up with 4 more stitches in my body section, so I have to adjust the waist shaping to accommodate those extra stitches. I spent about an hour and a half this morning figuring out how to do this, which was probably way more time than I needed to spend if I didn’t “think so hard.” But I think it was an hour and a half well spent because it really helped me understand how to adjust a pattern. (I made charts and everything!) Anyway here is what I came up with:
RD 1: K14, SSK, K44, K2tog, K to 4 st bf sm, SSK, K4, K to end
RD 3: K 12, SSK, K46, K2tog, K to 4 st bf sm, SSK, K4, K2tog, K to end
RD 5: K10, SSK, K48, K2tog, K to 4 st bf sm, SSK, K4, K2tog, K to end
RD 7: K8, SSK, K50, K2tog, K to end
RD 9: K6, SSK, K52, K2tog, K to 4 st bf sm, SSK, K4, K2tog, K to end
…. so, here is how I could have saved an hour: if I had read the pattern a little more closely rather than jumping right into the math, I would have noticed that for all the sizes Japel keeps all of the instructions the same except she adjusts the 3rd instruction (K44, K 46, etc…) depending no what size you are knitting. So I could have just figured that I had four more stitches that the smallest size calls for, so I just need to add 2 stitches to that stretch of knitting in the third instruction. (The second of the four extra stitches will obviously be added to the second decrease which is covered in the “K to end” instruction). Sigh. Live and learn. Sometimes it’s nice to take the scenic route.
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